Schooner and a sleepover
They've always been the best place to grab some grub, but Aussie pubs are now the hottest places to spend the night, too.
The sun is performing its encore as I step out onto the balcony of my room at the Portarlington Grand Hotel. The fading light bathes Port Phillip a silvery grey as the You Yangs range is backlit by an amber glow across the bay. I've arrived relatively fresh off a flight and a two-hour drive from Melbourne airport but below, seachange commuters step off the ferry even more relaxed after their 70-minute cruise from the city.
Portarlington may not be as well known as, say, Portsea or Lorne when it comes to seaside sojourns but the revival of this 1888 pub is changing that.
Once, this was where the "pretty grubby" pub rooms were found - with one communal bathroom instead of the palatial ensuite I find myself twirling in as I freshen up for dinner. The history lesson comes compliments of staffer Erika Hierson who accompanies me on a walk through the 135-year-old hotel. The front bar is warm and welcoming - a far cry from the intimidating, sticky-floored venue it's rumoured to have been. Hand-trowelled walls and handsome curved booths create a warm atmosphere while yellow recycled glass panels line a shelf above the wood-panelled bar, holding old bottles and trinkets recovered in the renovation. It's sophisticated, suave and locals are loving it.
"Everyone just wants the town to grow and get better so it's a nice vibe, everyone's really happy," Erika says.
Pub accommodation has historically been more about function than flourish. You'd be crazy to expect more than a bed for the night when you've enjoyed yourself a little too much to drive, let alone private amenities.
But in recent years, pubs across the country have been changing hands and shifting focus. Pokies are out and family-friendly dining is in. The rowdy, high-vis crowded front bars have been superseded by designer interiors, while onsite rooms have become more akin to boutique hotels.
>This story first appeared in Explore Magazine 14 October, 2023. Continue reading on the PDF or online here.
